Friday, October 28, 2011

Settling in

Whoever said it's the journey, not the destination never flew United.
I arrived at the San Antonio airport at 3 p.m. Tuesday and didn't arrive in Addis Ababa until 2 a.m. Friday thanks to a series of mechanical issues, missed connections and other humiliations.
I landed in Addis exhausted, dirty - and, it turns out, without my luggage. It's in Chicago or London.
Enough of that - I'm here and settling in nicely.
In any journey, the first step is always the scariest. For the days leading up to my trip, I was most worried about stepping off the plane into the unknown - but after four days living in airports, it was like walked across my living room.
I caught a taxi to the Baro Hotel - "many white people there" the driver said. He taught me some words in Amharic and corrected the pronunciation of the ones I already knew.
Funny - every time I've tried to speak Amharic, people just smile and say "very good." Which means the opposite.
The taxi driver said - there are a lot of Americans from Washington D.C. in Ethiopia and lots of Chinese. I read an article that said the Chinese just invested $10 billion in a railroad from Addis to Djbouti toward the coast. They are investing roads and rail all over Africa.
I paid for a room through Monday night - about $6 a night.
My biggest fear about this trip was that I wouild be shy and would spend most of my trip alone. Instead, I ordered a coffee and approached a group of travelers sitting in the shade. I asked if anyone would be willing to show me around and soon I was walking the streets with a Nepali Sherpa who is riding his bicycle around the world in a 17 years trip and a Macedonian-Australian who kept the conversation going with a steady stream of political opinion.
Highlight of the day was dropping in on a film festival of documentaries about communal living in India.
As we walked around the city stopping for coffee - which is amazing - I met people about my age who were educated in the states, had careers in places like L.A., San Francisco, New York and recently moved back home to Addis.
A combination of the poor economy in the U.S., improving opportunities in Ethiopia and aging parents brought them here - a growing professional "creative class."
I heard of one man - a jazz musician from New York, educated at the Berklee School of Music - who moved back and helped start a music program for jazz musicians and opened a jazz club not far from where I'm staying. Going there tonight.

P.S. As I wait for my luggage to arrive, I've learned that the bare necessities are:
- A handkerchief (the best thing I packed)
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Deodarant
- Shampoo from a Chicago hotel
- The clothes on my back
- Sunglasses
- Pen and paper
- A copy of The Atlantic Monthly

Now you know.

4 comments:

  1. Sounds awesome! Can't wait to read more. We need to have an African when you return. We can tell stories and swap pictures. I hope Kenyan overwhelms all your senses as Rwanda did ours. Keep walking one step at a time. Enjoy!

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  2. My pj clad 10 yr old stepdaughter, Rees Marie, enjoyed reading this while on my lap this morning (even b4 pbs kids morning shows). I hope to inspire her to be adventurous. I loved that she could get to know you thru your writing and adventures (not as good as being in the shiny-ness of true Autumn greatness, tho!). It's been far to long dear one ... be safe & have an amazing time.

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  3. You made it! Love it that you toured the city with a Nepali Sherpa... what a great guide! Looking forward to hearing about the jazz club. Thinking of you often. Hope the luggage arrives soon! -Meghan

    PS please disregard the pic of us, in our swimsuits. Sometimes V is very strange. Old pic and I have no idea how to change it.

    PPS And my parents comment from above... apparently they are still jet lagging from their own African adventure... I'm sure they know you are in Ethiopia and not Kenya..haha.

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  4. One must know oneself. If this does not serve to discover truth, it at least serves as a rule of life and there is nothing better.
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